Door Panel Seal (Plastic Sheet) Replacement

MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
in Bodywork & Cosmetic Modifications
The plastic sheet behind the door panels is rarely reusable and the putty that holds it is usually hardened and useless. It's important to replace this seal with something to keep dust out of the increasingly scarce window regulators. After multiple unsuccessful attempts to glue polyethylene (Visqueen) sheet, I decided there must be something else. It came to me this morning. Tyvek house wrap! It's non-breathable, tough and can be glued. It's available 3 ft. wide by the foot on eBay with very reasonable shipping. I'm ordering some immediately, will try spray glue to hold it.

Has anybody tried this, or anything else?

Comments

  • sohawksohawk Wagonist
    Haven't done it, but I need to. I really busted up one of mine when I had to change a window channel.

    Good idea, let us know how it works out.
  • dove grey 64dove grey 64 Wagonist
    MrWhoopee wrote: »
    The plastic sheet behind the door panels is rarely reusable and the putty that holds it is usually hardened and useless. It's important to replace this seal with something to keep dust out of the increasingly scarce window regulators. After multiple unsuccessful attempts to glue polyethylene (Visqueen) sheet, I decided there must be something else. It came to me this morning. Tyvek house wrap! It's non-breathable, tough and can be glued. It's available 3 ft. wide by the foot on eBay with very reasonable shipping. I'm ordering some immediately, will try spray glue to hold it.

    Has anybody tried this, or anything else?

    Not entirely true, the plastic sheet is to stop moisture affecting the door trim and also to stop outside air coming through the door trim. I have used plastic drop sheets and duct tape to replace broken ones before.
    Found some info that may help you
    http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/basics-basics-moisture-shields-behind-trim-panels-161805.html#/forumsite/20624/topics/161805
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    dove grey 64 wrote: »
    Not entirely true, the plastic sheet is to stop moisture affecting the door trim and also to stop outside air coming through the door trim. I have used plastic drop sheets and duct tape to replace broken ones before.
    Found some info that may help you
    http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/basics-basics-moisture-shields-behind-trim-panels-161805.html#/forumsite/20624/topics/161805

    Yes, I was aware of the moisture control aspects, but here in California dust is much more of an issue lately. :nightmare:
    Good tutorial, I wasn't aware of the butyl tape.
    I've been trying to avoid any of the commonly available tapes because they harden and fail.
  • greenteagodgreenteagod Moderator
    Spray glue generally needs applied to both sides. I'd not want to gum up the regulators or get any on glass or other internal door workings to make sure it's fully bonded. Maybe test the sticktivity with some various flavors of RTV
  • bam-bambam-bam Council Member
    I like to use heavy plastic sheet and gaffer tape. I hadn't really thought about it, but butyl tape is probably the closest thing to original. Get it at any RV place.

    The best sheet material I've used was tarpaulin patching material. The trucking outfit I worked for at the time had a flatbed division, and there happened to be a roll handy when I needed it..
  • greenteagodgreenteagod Moderator
    Not to thread jack, but if someone were to use a dynamat type product, would you want to remove the plastic and just use it in place or do it over the plastic itself. If that plastic is still there.

    Just thinking of other means to accomplish this, if someone were going for some better sound deadening capabilities. I have to imagine that aluminum backed rubber is gonna be a hell of a vapor/dust barrier.
  • dove grey 64dove grey 64 Wagonist
    greenteagod wrote: »
    Not to thread jack, but if someone were to use a dynamat type product, would you want to remove the plastic and just use it in place or do it over the plastic itself. If that plastic is still there.

    Just thinking of other means to accomplish this, if someone were going for some better sound deadening capabilities. I have to imagine that aluminum backed rubber is gonna be a hell of a vapor/dust barrier.
    I would get rid of the plastic if using dynamat personally but I suppose it could still work with it on. Dynamat would negate the need for it though as its non porous to begin with.

    How does the dust get into the door? From the window channel?
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    Assuming you are putting the Dynamat against the outside skin of the door, I would definitely put the plastic in place. Do they make Dynamat thin enough to go where the plastic sheet is? The link dove gray 64 posted above describes how much water can get inside the door and (without the plastic) inside the car. The masonite door panels in my VW bus were ruined by plugged door drains and lack of plastic barrier, and it doesn't even have roll-down windows.

    Dust comes in thru every conceivable opening (and some inconceivable ones). I've had clouds of dust drifting in thru my speakers when driving on back roads.
  • dove grey 64dove grey 64 Wagonist
    Dynamat normally goes between the door trim and inner frame like so
    279.jpg
    You could leave the plastic in place but your dynamat would have to run higher up the door, it weighs alot and if it came unstuck it would separate the plastic beneath it from your door frame (if they bonded)
    Im accounting for alot of "what ifs" and talking out loud.
    For example mr whoopee with the issue of water drainage, the plastic on the inner door frame gets stuck to a flat piece of the frame and its only way of directing water back to the inner skin and the drain holes is if its
    A: 100% water tight sealed around the bottom and sides
    B:fills up and tips over the edge of the lip on the bottom hole.
    Probably easier to see what im blabbing about with this pic
    280.jpg
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    dove grey 64 wrote: »
    Dynamat normally goes between the door trim and inner frame like so
    279.jpg
    You could leave the plastic in place but your dynamat would have to run higher up the door, it weighs alot and if it came unstuck it would separate the plastic beneath it from your door frame (if they bonded)
    Im accounting for alot of "what ifs" and talking out loud.
    For example mr whoopee with the issue of water drainage, the plastic on the inner door frame gets stuck to a flat piece of the frame and its only way of directing water back to the inner skin and the drain holes is if its
    A: 100% water tight sealed around the bottom and sides
    B:fills up and tips over the edge of the lip on the bottom hole.
    Probably easier to see what im blabbing about with this pic

    Ah, there we go. The Dynamat I have used was a much thicker product. I guess I'm just behind the times (again). No additional plastic necessary with the installation shown.
  • 91 RT4WD91 RT4WD Wagonist
    91 RT4WD wrote: »
    Added some sound deadening material
    290.jpg
    291.jpg
    292.jpg

    It blocks moisture, dust, and pretty much everything. We put it on every spot we could.
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    After reading about the moisture control aspects of the plastic barrier, I looked at the door again.

    368.jpg

    Note the slot and hole and how closely the caulking passes under them. Also note that the caulking runs downhill to those two openings. This directs water on the plastic sheet down to the openings and back into the door, rather that letting it pool between the plastic and metal. I have ordered some sealing tape

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JFKMWG/ref=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

    and will follow the line of caulk closely when I attach the Tyvek.
  • greenteagodgreenteagod Moderator
    Very good call out there.
  • MrWhoopeeMrWhoopee Wagonist
    The tape I mentioned above, CRL 1/16" x 1/4" Sealant Tape by CR Laurence, arrived. It came in a vinyl mailer, which was stuck so completely to the tape that I had to destroy it to get the tape out. A good sign. I tried it out on another car using some Visqueen. It stuck quite convincingly to both surfaces, even though the door had not been well cleaned. I like it!

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