Electronics, Fueling & Air Conditioning — civicwagon.com

86 Wagovan Fuel Fill hose replacement

JWB — Sat, 18 Jan 2025 17:22:41 +0000

My 86 Wagovan has developed a leak in the fuel hoses that feed the tank, and the fuel will leak on the ground. The replacement to these rubber hoses are not available through dealers or places like rockauto. Anybody know if there are generic hoses to replace them? Thanks!

Help me get my baby running again! Possibly a fuel problem

AlwaysTrying2Learn — Tue, 28 Jun 2022 16:42:21 +0000

Hi, I’ve had my 1988 Wagovan for 25 years and it’s been the most reliable thing in my life. I am moving states and decided to send my car to my granddaughter in Texas for her 17th birthday. BUT, I was dropping something off and left the engine running while I got out of the car- within seconds the engine turned itself off and now the car won’t start. It has a new battery, and the engine cranks, please don’t suggest it’s the battery. One other piece of information that might help you diagnose or make suggestions is that for well over 10 years, the check engine light has been coming on and off without any effect on the car’s running. I tried to get it diagnosed twice with mechanics who couldn’t figure out what was happening (they said if the car worked, it wasn’t worth my money to have them spend enough time to find the problem). I don’t want to prejudice any other answers, but I’m wondering if it’s the main fuel relay or another fuel-related component. Unfortunately I can’t find the relay. I have never been able to find a service manual. Can someone please provide photos of the location of the relay or pages from the service manual or SOME advice on how to figure out the problem?? I am NOT a mechanic. I am a woman who had two kids and no money and had to learn how to work on my car using books. Never had anyone to teach me this stuff. Thank you.

Dash Wiring Help

ZC85wagon — Tue, 26 Mar 2024 21:28:19 +0000

I have a 1985 Civic Wagon 4wd that I am in the process of ZC swapping. While I was routing wires for MPFI, the dash and headlights stopped working. Gauge cluster has no power, headlights won't turn off unless battery is disconnected, and I have no blinkers. All the wiring I added still works fine though. looking for pinouts for the gauge cluster and combination switch so that I can trace out the wires to find the problem.

d15b6 with mpfi swap

brownwagoon — Sat, 09 Sep 2023 21:43:41 +0000

I recently came into possession of a project 1991 dx wagon that has been "swapped" with a d15b6 with mpfi. I am confused as to the wiring that needs to be done. I have both the harness for the new engine and the harness from the original engine and was wondering what be best course of action would be. Which harness should I install and then begin splicing wires into? Additionally, are there any resources here or elsewhere that might allow me do some additional research? Thank you.

Q's on Automatic Seatbelts

monster d — Wed, 23 Jan 2013 21:56:24 +0000

The previous owner of my wagon did not like the automatic seat belts...so he decided it would be cool to some how turn them off so they would not work. When I bought the car I tried to get him to explain to me how to turn the back on and he was not very clear. Texted him today and he told me that there is a fuse he took out under the passenger side carpet? I looked under the passenger side carpet and can't find any fuse. Looked in the fuse box on the driver side and couldn't find a spot for the seatbelts...off topic on my fuse box it has spots for a sunroof and power locks? lol I didn't know wagons in American came with that? Please someone help me out with this problem. Thanks.

Mystery wire hooked to my battery... Can you help me identify it?

dylanu — Tue, 05 Mar 2013 19:31:21 +0000

In my 1991 wagon, I found a mystery wire that is connected to a fused harness that is not in my 1989. Can you please help tell me if this is oem or some bad wiring job...

88-91 All the Wiring Information You Could Need is in Here.

klum — Wed, 31 Dec 2014 16:25:55 +0000

was searching for some info on plug wire colors to find out what was messed up on my harness and found this little list already made up figured id repost it

88-91 sensor wire colors:

EACV (IACV) - 2-wire connector (if car was DPFI, the connector is green) - one Blue with Yellow stripe and one Black with Yellow stripe
IAT - 2-wire connector - one Red with Yellow stripe and one Green with White stripe
Tandem Control Valve (on DPFI only) - 2-wire connector - one Solid Orange and one Black with Yellow stripe
TPS - 3-wire connector - one Yellow with White stripe, one Green with White stripe and one Red with Blue stripe
MAP - 3-wire connector - one Yellow with Red stripe, one Green with White stripe and one Solid White
FICV (Fast Idle Control Valve on 89-91 D16A6 only) - 2-wire connector - one Black with Yellow stripe and one Solid Blue
Cooling Fan Switch - 2-wire connector - one Yellow with Green stripe and one Solid Black
TW Sensor (Coolant Temp for ECU) - 2-wire connector - one Red with White stripe and one Green with White stripe
Temp Gauge Sending Unit - 1-wire connector - Yellow with Green stripe
Oil Pressure Sending Unit - - 1-wire connector - Yellow with Red stripe

-Distributor Pinouts ( obd1 - 2 included )

JDM ZC Dizzy

ECU PINOUTS

These are the wire colors on the stock harness (most of them are the same for the non-Si models.

And these are the functions of the wires on the stock harness

DPFI TO MPFI from rywire

Picture

From 12volt

1988-91 Honda Civic Stereo Wiring

Constant 12V+
Blue/White

Switched 12V+
Yellow/Red

Ground
Black

Illumination
Red/Black

Dimmer
n/a

Antenna
Driver's Pillar

Front Speakers
6 1/2" Doors

Left Front (+)
Blue/Green

Left Front (-)
Gray/Black

Right Front (+)
Red/Green

Right Front (-)
Brown/Black

Rear Speakers
6 1/2" Rear Deck

Left Rear (+)
Blue/Yellow

Left Rear (-)
Gray/White

Right Rear (+)
Red/Yellow

Right Rear (-)
Brown/White

also from 12volt

1988-91 Honda Civic Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information

Constant 12V+
White
Ignition Switch Harness

Starter
Black/White
Ignition Switch Harness

Ignition
Black/Yellow
Ignition Switch Harness

Accessory
Blue/White
Ignition Switch Harness

Tach
Blue
Distributor

Brake Switch
Green/White
Brake Switch

Trunk Pin
Green/Black (-)
Harness from Dash INDICATOR

Parking Lights
Red/Black
Fuse Panel

Head Lamp
Red/Blue
Fuse Panel

Hood Pin
n/a

Factory Disarm
n/a

Door Trigger
Green/Red (-)
Driver's Kick

Door Lock
Green/White (-)
In Driver's Door at Door Lock Module

Door Unlock
Green/Red (-)

Horn Wire
Blue/Red (-)
Steering Column, use Relay

This info will be good for those of us who need to know the proper wires for making kill switches or remote starts / locks ect.

Heres a Link to a Thread discussing foglight wiring options
http://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/need-fog-light-diagram-2676448/
and
http://honda-tech.com/acura-integra-6/foglight-wiring-harness-solution-2657396/
and

maybe we can make it a thread where we post all the wiring colors or diagrams for future reference instances

thats about all i could think of that would come up
My gift to you fellow wagoneers have a happy new year folks

DAMNED trunk/boot light on the dash

Tadas — Sun, 15 Aug 2021 17:56:06 +0000

Good day everyone!

I have been messing about with my rear lights, trunk and my dashboard.

Once I turned on my car the open trunk light came on.

The trunk latch is 100% closed.
I tried to disconnect the trunk latch cable witch is green/black with silver.
I tried putting some copper into the connector to make the light go away.

None of the options worked, and I wonder if there is a diagram or if you guys have any idea of how to make my light go away?

How to add AC to an 86 Wagovan

JWB — Fri, 27 Dec 2019 04:22:55 +0000

Hi folks,

This summer I got a 1986 Civic Wagovan 4WD (1.5L engine) my wife had purchased new and later gave to her parents. They used it for many years, but it set up for several years before they gave it back. To get it running again, I replaced the carburetor (big job), battery, shocks (easy), brakes, tires, belts, water hoses (arrg), leaky fuel lines & filters, and a few other things. I also graphite-oiled the squeaky speedometer cable (its a big job to replace). Inside, I replaced the faulty turn signal unit (with used from eBay), blower motor resistor, antenna & speakers, and repaired the heater vent linkage. Everything now works and the car runs well, gets 32 MPG, and has 4WD when we need it. We plan to drive this "little blue Honda" for many years to come.

Problem. This 86 Civic Wagovan was originally purchased in northern CA and did not come with (optional) air conditioning. It is now driven in an area where AC is really necessary for summer driving. So I would like to add air conditioning. There are lots of reconditioned parts available as replacement purchases, but since I am starting from zero, I am not sure I can get everything I will need. For example, there is a place on the dash for an AC on/off button, but I have no idea what the button looks like. So, before I go off on a spending spree, I really want to know what is needed to put in AC after-the-fact, including information on AC control, fusing, switch, harness, relay, mounting, and routing of AC hoses, etc. I don't have much experience with this sort of thing, and I've never seen an installed AC system in this model (which is why I am glad to have found this civicwagon forum).

Does anyone have information that will help me add AC when this car never had it?

Driving without a tune

superhatch — Tue, 26 Nov 2019 21:06:07 +0000

So I've got a built Z6 which is boosted and on Hondata. My tuner is about a 45m drive from my house and I've already been there once (had a main seal leak) and rented a uhaul to drive the car there and back which was about $120 each way.

I have a base tune currently installed and Im wondering if I stay out of boost and just drive slowly over to the tuner if that would be ok, or is it in my best interest not to drive at all without a tune?

Adding A/C

Norm — Mon, 01 Jul 2019 13:49:53 +0000

I was looking at buying a 90 wago. Problem is, I live in central Washington and its hot as hell during summer time and the wagon doesnt have ac. Is it a pain in the ass to install an ac system and what am I looking at price wise to do so? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Dealer installed powered Sun Roof is not working

91DX — Tue, 02 Jul 2019 16:04:14 +0000

I just got a 91 with a dealer installed Sun Roof, it does not move. I don't hear the motor when I hit the switch. how should I start my diagnosis? UPDATE!! I checked the switch and the 30AMP fuse.I'm pretty sure it's the Sun Roof module. I have no idea where to get one.

Driver seat belt issue 1991 wagon

wagoguy909 — Tue, 05 Mar 2019 19:52:18 +0000

Hey guys, wanted to see if anybody had the same problem Im having. I have a 91 wagon and the driver side front seat belt moves back-and-forth while Im driving. So far Ive replaced the small L-shaped mechanism that the door pushes when closed. I have also replaced a small box underneath the driver side seat and the problem remains. I have also replaced the entire mechanical seatbelt mechanism with no success. If anyones had the same issue please chime in, thanks in events.

Can I use a DX wagon dash/cabin harness in RT4wd?

EhrenNavesken — Sat, 02 Mar 2019 16:58:17 +0000

The dash/cabin harness as well as engine harness in my 88 rt4wd is trashed and unsalvageble. If I am unable to find a clean 88 rt4wd dash/cabin harness am I able to use a DX dash/cabin harness with the matching dpfi engine harness and convert them to mpfi? I know that the harness have to be year matching and dpfi or mpfi matching which is why I would use matching dpfi cabin and engine harness if I am able to.

Radiator fan problems

Wagoman209 — Sun, 24 Feb 2019 21:03:29 +0000

Soooo my radiator fan was not turning on and I have checked the fuses, relay, and thermostat switch. When I jump the plug that goes to the switch my fans do not turn on as I have heard they are supposed to. I put a ground to the relay and the fans turn on when I do that so I know that the fans and relay are functional. I even cut off the plug that goes into the 2 pin connector on the head and wired those directly to each other to see if that would turn on the fans but still nothing. So I suspect that the wires going to the 2 pin plug are screwed up. Has anyone had similar problems? Like I said I know the relay is fine and have even checked it with a few other relays I have from the junkyard. I also know that the fans are fine. Why would my plug going to head for the thermostat switch not be working even when jumped? Thank for any help in advance.

P.S I have a toggle switch currently set up to the relay so I can still drive the car but I'm one of those dudes that likes things to work as they should. Thanks again your guy's help is very appreciated! -Jack the wagoman

Radiator fan problems

Wagoman209 — Sun, 24 Feb 2019 15:00:09 +0000

So I am having problems with my radiator fan turning on. I took the coolant temp sensor off and jumped it with a paper clip however that did not turn the fans on. I then tested the fan itself and it works just fine I also changed relays multiple times and that doesn't fix it I know that the car is supposed to be on the on position when jumping it but it does not start the fans. I even pulled the coolant temp sensor plug off because I was going to replace it and jumped the wired directly to each other. Still nothing. Right now I have a toggle switch wired to the relay so I can still turn the fans on/off but I would like to get it back to stock. Is there anything else I can check? I have also checked the fuses under the dash but there all good. Any help is greatly appreciated this is driving me crazy. Thanks in advance. -Jack the wagoman

Wiring issue

Yolanda90 — Sat, 04 Aug 2018 01:03:09 +0000

everytime I start my car the clock is reset to 1:00. On top of that my open door warning light stays on. When I put my left turn signal on and only my left, the open door warning light and clock flash along with the turn signal. Any ideas?

iddle issue

EVILEMPIRE — Sat, 22 Apr 2017 18:52:22 +0000

Well lately on my 1988 honda civic wagon has a idle issue doesn't make my car turn off but starts to shake when it drops down to 300-400 it seems and just jumps and jumps there is no check engine light on my car been looking at youtube videos but just thought ill ask here first

Front speaker replacement

Tadas — Mon, 09 Jul 2018 01:07:40 +0000

Hello guys,

As you know I own a 1992 civic shuttle RT4wd.

My car currently has these wicked bad boys installed:

As you can see it sits in a plastic shroud, which sits in a door.

I have searched throughout the forum, there is no sticky for the front speakers.

But there is a whole lot of info saying speakers that are from 12cm up to 16.5cm WILL FIT our doors.

Unfortunately, deep speakers are a no go, since from our metal door to window we got only 6 cm of depth.

Furthermore, the stock speaker itself is NOT 12 cm, it is more like 7.5 cm, and the whole plastic thing is 12cm.

However, surely we cannot just take the plastic out and put in a speaker, we need to make some sort of ring around it for the speakers to work properly.

So, lets make this thread about actual real front speaker replacements.

Any info with pictures of your front speakers is very welcome.

2 things to consider - windows must go down all the way and front plastic cover must stay in tact.

Rodeo rear speaker pod install TWO WAYS! ( Headliner and " OEM " location )

klum — Thu, 05 Apr 2018 03:31:45 +0000

Now someone can correct me if I'm wrong but Rodeos are rebadged as Honda passports in America and both were sold here lol
So there potential they came on both vehicles I thought my first set came from a passport but I know my second set came from a 97 rodeo and I want to say they only came on like 96-98 other years had a slimmer profile ( again correct me if im wrong. )

What you will need from the donor car would be
the speaker pods
the supporting bracket and hardware unmounted from the frame / headliner area in the donor car.

this shows what the bracket and pods looks like mostly intact.

Locate your rear speaker pod wires that are factory in behind the back panels I only took them out enough for me to reach in and pull them thru otherwise i think youd need to remove your rear seats to do this process.

They will be right next to where the seat clicks into position.

Some wire to extend your pigtails to the civic wagon.

I used some connectors that fit right into the speaker plugs one i just ground in half

you have to grind it down or get ones thinner i just used what was laying around the garage since its just speakers.

so first I cut the brackets into sections

make marks where you want the holes with the other end of the brackets youll be making a sandwich with btwn the rear panel

on both sides

I ended up just using electrical tape to mask the bright color of the wires and ran them thru the bulb panel looks clean.

only tips triple check hole marks before you drill so they line up in all the holes , mine were a little off because it got dark and i didnt have much light it was covered up by the bracket any way.

and heres what I did on my other wagon

same process just mount the brackets as pictured cut out uniform and set them at a location right behind the rear head rests mark them off and take the headliner off and cut and mount.

as seen here.

I cut small holes and ran a zip tie in the back of the LEADliner to support the weight

looks tacky maybe i guess but if you can think of something better do it that way lol I dont mind this at all ( I want to say it might not be necesary because I also am not running my upper panels so maybe that would help hold it up more do what suits your car mo betta..

Run the wires along the cpillar for a clean look using double sided adhesive tape or whatever again works best for you.

Ek cluster into 90 wagon

Freek — Sat, 15 Jan 2011 14:17:44 +0000

just wondering if anyone knew if the wiring was different the wagon cluster plugs. like civic and crx have jus lil bit of difference.

fog lights for wagon

EVILEMPIRE — Sun, 13 Aug 2017 23:22:22 +0000

i have a few questions what fog lights u guys running? as winter is coming and we get alot of fog and i drive to work 5-6am are hella to big? is there hellas but smaller

headlights for 1988

EVILEMPIRE — Fri, 01 Sep 2017 00:51:52 +0000

well i have been searching for some decent headlights the ones i have on my car look ugly.. i have another set from a 4door sedan but also look ugly would u guys pain the inside? ive searched for new lights they are 190$ and then i found these on ebay dont know if they are legit http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Glass-Headlight-Lamp-For-Honda-Civic-SH3-ED6-EF1-EF2-3DR-Hatchback-1988-89-/272716806045?fits=Year%3A1988%7CMake%3AHonda%7CModel%3ACivic&hash=item3f7f30379d:g:9CgAAOSwgv5ZQPlx&vxp=mtr

but those are 140$ and idk if i want to put the halo ones on my 88 wagon a little help plz

Led lights on our wagon

EVILEMPIRE — Fri, 22 Sep 2017 14:34:59 +0000

Can we put led bulbs for our wagons or will it burn out the socket https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LY7MLQV/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1AKS65DNJZJ0J&psc=1 will these work

9005 conversions over HID?

klum — Wed, 30 Aug 2017 17:20:19 +0000

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/9005-headlight-conversion-1667504/
saw this thread looking for reference for what size our headlights are .

"
This is my own write up on the 9005 conversion. If you dont understand please PM me and I can help you out.

The idea behind this swap is to put 9005 highbeam headlight bulbs into your 9006 lowbeam sockets. The 9005 lights are 70% brighter then the 9006's so they are a great alternitive to HIDS which cost a lot more.

You do not have to replace all four high and low lights at the same time but I did anyway. Each light costs about $10.

What you will need:
At least TWO 9005 lights.
A dremel tool with a grinding and cutting wheel.
One flat head screw driver with small tip.

To remove the lights reach behind the light housing and twist the grey ***. It is hard to turn but once it was been losend you may remove the light. To remove the light from the socket push down on the little tap on the top of it and pull on the light. This is even harder to do. DO NOT touch the light bulb on either removal or replacement. Not only are they very easy to break but the oil from your skin will cause a hot spot on the light causing them to burn out very fast.

These are 9005 lights.

http://www.theinstallationshop...P.jpg

http://www.theinstallationshop...P.jpg

Notice how they have two little bumps inside the socket. These are there to prevent you from installing them in a 9006 socket.

These are 9006 lights.

http://www.theinstallationshop...P.jpg

http://autolumination.com/imag...c.jpg

These only have one bump so you dont install them into the 9005 socket.

This is a shot of the 9005 and 9006 together respectivly.

http://www.bomzracing.com/Prod...6.jpg

In order to place the 9005 light into the 9006 socket you must totaly remove the TWO bumps from the 9005 socket.

This is a side shot of one of the lights.

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib...p.jpg

Notice the groove on the left side of the pic on the light. When looking at the light from the top down it will be at the top of the light and slightly off to one side. This must be filed down by about 3/4ths to fit inside the 9006 housing. This is because The groove on the 9006 housing for that particular bump is opposite of the 9005 light so that you dont put the wrong bulb in there. On the 9006 light the bump is on the left side of the light when looking at it from the top down and on the 9005 it is on the right.

The final thing you must do is remove the O-ring from the 9006 light (yellow on stock lights) and put it OVER the 9005 O-ring (usualy red.) This is because this part of the 9005 light is slightly smaller then the 9006 light and so if you were not put the 9006 O-ring on it it wouldnt fit tightly enough. It should come off rather easily with a small screw driver or even a toothpick. Just place the tip under and slowly work it out of the groove. To place on the 9005 light simply roll it on top of the 9005 O-ring.

This is a pic of my car after doing this conversion. I must say it makes a huge improvment over the puny stock lights.

http://img55.imageshack.us/img...q.jpg

Note in this pic my right light was slightly out of direction. If you find that yours are like this to simply adjust the adjuster screws until both sides are even.

ps the pic wasnt taken on a golf course.
"

none of the links work but its a interesting discussion id like to hear what the community things

Mpfi swap question

invalid — Tue, 27 Jun 2017 13:44:11 +0000

I have a 88 maybe 89 parts rt and I also have a 91 2wd. I was tossing the idea of swapping to mpfi for my 2wd and can't find if I can just swap the harness or if I still have to do wiring. I have all the parts and plug and play just makes the job quicker. My car is an auto and so is the rt. So I'm guessing the ecu will be fine. I'm not sure if the 88-89 harness is different or not. My other rt is a obd1 b18c1 so that isn't any help for reference. Thoughts?

C creative daisy blindes

Creamykid — Thu, 18 May 2017 12:38:12 +0000

Wanted to see if someone had a diagram on how to mount and run wires thanks a lot
dont know if this is were I should post it figured since it's electronics it be worth a shot thanks

Recommendations for bulbs - 1988 civic wagon

jolo100 — Sat, 15 Apr 2017 17:56:06 +0000

I have a 88 civic wagon, 5 door automatic.. And I am looking for some advice.

I would like to improve the lighting of the headlights and I was thinking of just replacing my current bulbs with new, better bulbs.

Cam I get better bulbs (low beam) in the front without getting a new kit.. Just bulbs?
If I can get better lighting from replacing just the bulbs, can you please give me recommendations on appropriate bulbs?

Thank you :smug:for your time and expertise...
Jon

Swapping a complete OBD1 harness and ECU into civic?

JLane91 — Tue, 28 Mar 2017 06:26:50 +0000

If you guys have not seen I am doing a turbo build on my 91 wagon.
I rebuilt the stock d15b2 and have that in the car and its running.

First off let me say I HATE WIRING. So I was going to buy a conversion harness to swap from dpfi to mpfi and obd0-obd1 all in one harness(CJSWiring harness)

This is truly a budget build and im trying to find ways around the expensive stuff to make it work just fine

MY question is,

The car is obd0 and dpfi
I have a d16y8 manifold i will be putting on the d15b2
I want to know if i can swap in a complete engine harness from a 92-95 civic (obd1) and hook up a P28 ecu(92-95 obd1)
with that being said, I will be swapping the dizzy and alternator to obd1 units.

I want to get all the wiring situated before I drop my built d16y8 in

So basically rip the old factory wiring harness out and put a complete obd1 harness in and plug a p28 ecu up. Be mindful, i will have a MPFI intake manifold, obd1 dizzy and obd1 alternator, so the motor will be ready.

Round Peg in a Square Hole - DOHC ZC Wiring

woodi — Thu, 20 May 2010 18:52:12 +0000

I got my zc into my wagon last night and started hooking everything up today. All was going well until i came across this.

Apparently the harness I got with my ZC Has a different plug on the drivers side fender by the resistor box than my stock motor had. Can I pull the pins out of the rectangular plug and move them to the round plug and have them work? Or should I pull that harness back out of the engine and swap out for my stock one. I was orginally thinking repin but the more and more i look at the harness on the motor I think the one on my stock motor is in a lot better shape. Any idea what's going on here though.

And in a related question if I do switch to my stock harness do I need to repin the dizzy plug. I have an RT4WD wagon so I'm pretty sure it's an SI harness to begin with so I think I don't have to repin in that case but I've been getting mixed signals on this.