DYI: rebuilding/repair RT4wd Viscous Coupler
VIPwryann
Wagonist
DYI: rebuilding RT4wd Viscous Coupler
Well after finding out my blue wagon needed a Viscous Coupler I did want any normal human would do, set out to find a good used one. So I found one, costed me $100 bucks + shipping installed it and then….Guess what? Same thing BAD!! Not working not good, Dam wait a waste of a $100 bucks. So I did some research… SuperHatch’s ref thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9772
So I made the decision that me, A guy that can build or do just about anything on a car/or in it LOL…. would disassemble the Viscous Coupler and see it could be repaired/serviced or rebuilt.
Side Note: I’m a master certified ASE Tech with over 10 years professional experience and also to note I have built well over 100 Honda gear boxes, B,D,H & K S2000 you name it I have probably made a repair to one or done a full rebuild.
HOWEVER!!! MY purpose is not to tell you all how good I am, Its to provide a DYI ( DO IT YOURSELF) on how to repaired/serviced or rebuilt you broke down non-working Viscous Coupler. There is still the matter of getting the correct fluid in this thing, my “trial” Viscous Coupler I used 75w90 gear oil, the Viscous Coupler Works!!! However I think Im going to try something a bit thicker next time. My wagon will get around in the snow, 4wd is working very well!!! Before I had NO 4wd at all.
There also Option #2 all you do is remove the Viscous Coupler, refill and them re-install. This works, but there are seals that are probably worn, most likely the fluid will leak out and then your in the same boat again.
“The problem that makes the Viscous Coupler stop working seems to be very simple, It just leaks out its fluid! No fluid no work”
I’m putting this DYI out there so…..
#1 hoping to help fellow Wagon owners
#2. Feed back to this thread of how your rebuild or Re-fill worked
Rebuild
I have tried to document this Step-By-Step, however there’s some this that are not pictured.
Step#1 Remove the Viscous Coupler
I dropped the drive line safety strap down to help getting the Coupler out
The four bolts in the Front of the VC I’m removing here probably would have been easier to remove with the VS in the wagon, that would have saved taking the greasy end of the driveline apart!!
Remove the 32mm bolt that holds the back drive line connector flange
From here you will find a several C-clips and your going to need some very good clip pliers
You will need to pry these covers off, very carefully
This big one almost killed me, LOL its very very hard to get off, I was able to tap on it all the way around then it finally loosened up
You will need to use a puller to get the thing apart
Once you get it apart there it is a million little discs
I will post more pic’s later but basically you replace to O-ring seals, and one normal seal in the front, I’m currently getting these seals as we speak. Because the VC is a Non-service part the seals are getting sourced from a company that specializes in seals. Re-assembly is pretty strait forward.
Re-fill
#1 Follow VS removal steps
#2 stand VS on end then remove two torques bolts, then fill
You may want to turn coupler as it filling to aid in the fillup
Its going to take about ½ Qt of fluid, I put a hole in the bottom of the bottle and let it sit over night, you may want to set in in a drain pan because once its full its going to spill out everywhere.
#3 Install back into car
Well after finding out my blue wagon needed a Viscous Coupler I did want any normal human would do, set out to find a good used one. So I found one, costed me $100 bucks + shipping installed it and then….Guess what? Same thing BAD!! Not working not good, Dam wait a waste of a $100 bucks. So I did some research… SuperHatch’s ref thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9772
So I made the decision that me, A guy that can build or do just about anything on a car/or in it LOL…. would disassemble the Viscous Coupler and see it could be repaired/serviced or rebuilt.
Side Note: I’m a master certified ASE Tech with over 10 years professional experience and also to note I have built well over 100 Honda gear boxes, B,D,H & K S2000 you name it I have probably made a repair to one or done a full rebuild.
HOWEVER!!! MY purpose is not to tell you all how good I am, Its to provide a DYI ( DO IT YOURSELF) on how to repaired/serviced or rebuilt you broke down non-working Viscous Coupler. There is still the matter of getting the correct fluid in this thing, my “trial” Viscous Coupler I used 75w90 gear oil, the Viscous Coupler Works!!! However I think Im going to try something a bit thicker next time. My wagon will get around in the snow, 4wd is working very well!!! Before I had NO 4wd at all.
There also Option #2 all you do is remove the Viscous Coupler, refill and them re-install. This works, but there are seals that are probably worn, most likely the fluid will leak out and then your in the same boat again.
“The problem that makes the Viscous Coupler stop working seems to be very simple, It just leaks out its fluid! No fluid no work”
I’m putting this DYI out there so…..
#1 hoping to help fellow Wagon owners
#2. Feed back to this thread of how your rebuild or Re-fill worked
Rebuild
I have tried to document this Step-By-Step, however there’s some this that are not pictured.
Step#1 Remove the Viscous Coupler
I dropped the drive line safety strap down to help getting the Coupler out
The four bolts in the Front of the VC I’m removing here probably would have been easier to remove with the VS in the wagon, that would have saved taking the greasy end of the driveline apart!!
Remove the 32mm bolt that holds the back drive line connector flange
From here you will find a several C-clips and your going to need some very good clip pliers
You will need to pry these covers off, very carefully
This big one almost killed me, LOL its very very hard to get off, I was able to tap on it all the way around then it finally loosened up
You will need to use a puller to get the thing apart
Once you get it apart there it is a million little discs
I will post more pic’s later but basically you replace to O-ring seals, and one normal seal in the front, I’m currently getting these seals as we speak. Because the VC is a Non-service part the seals are getting sourced from a company that specializes in seals. Re-assembly is pretty strait forward.
Re-fill
#1 Follow VS removal steps
#2 stand VS on end then remove two torques bolts, then fill
You may want to turn coupler as it filling to aid in the fillup
Its going to take about ½ Qt of fluid, I put a hole in the bottom of the bottle and let it sit over night, you may want to set in in a drain pan because once its full its going to spill out everywhere.
#3 Install back into car
Comments
Good question the correct answer may change based on feeback,
however This is what I recommend:
Its petroleum based so it may help expand the seals and get then to work for a little longer.
http://www.thesage.com/catalog/products ... icone.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Correction: After having purchased this stuff and refilling my VC, I find that the viscosity (1000 cS) is way too low. See my post below.
http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/ ... _en&bhcp=1
It's important to note that the fluid expands as it heats. All of the info I have read indicates that there should be 10-15% air in the coupler to allow for this expansion. Too much air, the coupler will not achieve full lock-up, too little and the seals will leak due to internal pressure.
This is great, I wanted to try this myself.
wagon...............................4ever..............
got them bushings, too, look great. and thanks for the helpful Sharpie notes and smileys:)
Where did you get your seals?
x2
I need some asap. Getting a new to me VC shortly and would like to run through it before install.
Thank You for a wonderful write up!
The VC is supposed to have 10-15 % of air space for the expantion of the fulid.
Quote by "MrWhoopee",
"It's important to note that the fluid expands as it heats. All of the info I have read indicates that there should be 10-15% air in the coupler to allow for this expansion. Too much air, the coupler will not achieve full lock-up, too little and the seals will leak due to internal pressure."
Oh thanks for that, I'll change it in a bit.
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19641359/Rt-4wd ... repair.pdf
pretty sweet
I appreciate the hard work you guys do! I have learned a lot about Civics from this forum.
We picked up a couple new seals at a local hydraulic/pneumatic pump store, burped the air out and it was good to go. I'm ready for the snow this winter.
Thanks again for the DIY!
Oh and to the guy that asked, NO you cannot eliminate the coupler and run on hard surface without creating problems with tyre wear, noise and handling issues
Quad ring for the shaft (need 2)
QR-4325
Large O-ring for the case
MOR-94.4x3.1
A couple of clarifications would help. Can the VC be removed without removing the drivelines?
When you said "Remove the 32mm bolt that holds the back drive line connector flange", I assume that's a 32mm hex nut. I have to buy the socket, so I want to be sure.
Still trying to figure out how to accurately refill to the proper level. Thinking about weighing the VC empty, then again when filled with water to determine the total capacity. Then calculate the weight of the proper amount of silicone oil (specific gravity of 1.06).
-Yes the VC can be removed without the removing the driveline(s)
-Yes, that's correct its a 32mm hex nut, same size as your front and rear axle nuts!
-That would be a very good idea!!