B Series RT4WD - The Highlights
Gizmo
Wagonist
So i have spent a good 3-4 hours trowling the depths of Civicwagon.com to find the ins and outs of the B Series RT4WD Civic Wagon.
This is NOT a how-to, this is the highlights of the important aspects of several discussions rounded up into a single topic.
Lets get down to business...
Can i use a D-B Gearbox adapter, Keeping the stock D Series RT4WD Transmission but using a B Series Motor?
Yes and no..
B Series Motors are Approx 2"s longer than a D Series Motor, Factor into account the width of the adapter plate, you are looking at 2.5" wider overall compared to a stock D Series RT4WD setup. The D Series block is shorter, but the tranny is longer. Whilst a B Series Motor is Longer, but the transmission is shorter.
This method will lead to crank pulley, gearbox, alternator clearance power steering, A/C belt clearance issues, requiring modification to the chassis rails, as well as custom lenght shafts and mid-shaft mount, Not to mention the prop would also be shifted over by the same distance, straining the UJ Joints.
Its easier and cheaper to use CRV Running gear...
Using CRV Running Gear.
This method will use a B Series motor with the CRV B Series AWD Transmission.
Engine Mounts
Use a standard D-B Conversion mount as per usual. The main issue is the front, rear and transmission mount. all will need to be custom and/ or adapted using the Mounts.
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=167741&viewfull=1#post167741
Gear Shift
CRV Shift linkage will be required, will require new holes drilling to mount the selector. Cables are pretty simple.
Referenced in video description - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TjtN7XUaYI
Clutch
CRV Gearboxes are Hydraulic. so factor in either a complete hydraulic clutch set-up, or adapt a Hydro-Cable kit to preserve the cable clutch.
Front drive shafts/axles
DA Integra Mid-Shaft and Axlesare required (No information regarding using CRV Gear)
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=10158&viewfull=1#post10158
Prop shaft
Prop shaft, using the CRV Item, will require new brackets for the centre diff. Will also require shortening. Its worth noting the CRV Viscous coupler doesnt lock as easily/ quick as a Civic wagon one does (This needs clarification)
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=75401&viewfull=1#post75401
Rear Diff
you will need to use the CRV Item. The gear ratios of the B Series gearbox will not match that of the Civic Wagon RT4WD Rear Diff. Over the distance of a mile, the distance travelled between the front and rear axles is approx 20ft, placing strain and wear and tear on tyres. The rear diff requires a custom mount on both the top and rear to mount the diff properly.
Reference - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=11597&viewfull=1#post11597
Civic wagon diff has been used, with custom prop.
Referenced in this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TjtN7XUaYI
Rear Drive Shafts/axles
CRV Rear shafts can be used but require modification to make them shorter (Information not 100% clear on what, i any, other modifications required)
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=75401&viewfull=1#post75401
Speedo
Use the electronic VSS or convert to cable operated VSS.
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=167741&viewfull=1#post167741
Crossmember clearence
Clearence is tight. Will require modification for increased clearence.
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=167741&viewfull=1#post167741
I will update this post with new accurate infomation as and when it appears.
i hope this saves everyone spending hours search like i did!
This is NOT a how-to, this is the highlights of the important aspects of several discussions rounded up into a single topic.
Lets get down to business...
Can i use a D-B Gearbox adapter, Keeping the stock D Series RT4WD Transmission but using a B Series Motor?
Yes and no..
B Series Motors are Approx 2"s longer than a D Series Motor, Factor into account the width of the adapter plate, you are looking at 2.5" wider overall compared to a stock D Series RT4WD setup. The D Series block is shorter, but the tranny is longer. Whilst a B Series Motor is Longer, but the transmission is shorter.
This method will lead to crank pulley, gearbox, alternator clearance power steering, A/C belt clearance issues, requiring modification to the chassis rails, as well as custom lenght shafts and mid-shaft mount, Not to mention the prop would also be shifted over by the same distance, straining the UJ Joints.
Its easier and cheaper to use CRV Running gear...
Using CRV Running Gear.
This method will use a B Series motor with the CRV B Series AWD Transmission.
Engine Mounts
Use a standard D-B Conversion mount as per usual. The main issue is the front, rear and transmission mount. all will need to be custom and/ or adapted using the Mounts.
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=167741&viewfull=1#post167741
Gear Shift
CRV Shift linkage will be required, will require new holes drilling to mount the selector. Cables are pretty simple.
Referenced in video description - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TjtN7XUaYI
Clutch
CRV Gearboxes are Hydraulic. so factor in either a complete hydraulic clutch set-up, or adapt a Hydro-Cable kit to preserve the cable clutch.
Front drive shafts/axles
DA Integra Mid-Shaft and Axlesare required (No information regarding using CRV Gear)
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=10158&viewfull=1#post10158
Prop shaft
Prop shaft, using the CRV Item, will require new brackets for the centre diff. Will also require shortening. Its worth noting the CRV Viscous coupler doesnt lock as easily/ quick as a Civic wagon one does (This needs clarification)
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=75401&viewfull=1#post75401
Rear Diff
you will need to use the CRV Item. The gear ratios of the B Series gearbox will not match that of the Civic Wagon RT4WD Rear Diff. Over the distance of a mile, the distance travelled between the front and rear axles is approx 20ft, placing strain and wear and tear on tyres. The rear diff requires a custom mount on both the top and rear to mount the diff properly.
Reference - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=11597&viewfull=1#post11597
Civic wagon diff has been used, with custom prop.
Referenced in this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TjtN7XUaYI
Rear Drive Shafts/axles
CRV Rear shafts can be used but require modification to make them shorter (Information not 100% clear on what, i any, other modifications required)
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=75401&viewfull=1#post75401
Speedo
Use the electronic VSS or convert to cable operated VSS.
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=167741&viewfull=1#post167741
Crossmember clearence
Clearence is tight. Will require modification for increased clearence.
Referenced in this post - http://www.civicwagon.com/showthread.php?350-B-series-RT-discussion&p=167741&viewfull=1#post167741
I will update this post with new accurate infomation as and when it appears.
i hope this saves everyone spending hours search like i did!
Comments
Ill add this to thinks when I'm in the office this week (if someone else doesn't first).
The Intrac rear end has the same ratio as the crv rear at 2.529. Theoretically this should mean that intrac wagons/sedans can retain the rear end with a crv transmission, likely only needing a custom propeller shaft. I will get under my car at some point and measure the shaft, as the intrac one is shorter than the regular rt4wd one and lacks the viscous coupler as far as I know. This likely isnt much help for people in the states as I dont think you got the intrac there, but hopefully it will be helpful to someone.
shifter cables: i used wagon cables and modified the bracket on the tranny to accept them. welding aluminum isnt an option for eveyone, so it might be easier to source crv shifter and cables. plus they will likely be in better shape and have less slop.
clutch: all b-series clutches are the same, including crv. easy peasy. however, if you want to do this swap, plan on converting the car to hydrolic. DO NOT use a converter setups from hasport or anyone else. been there and done that and they suck ass.
driveline: its basically a piece of exhaust tubing, so its easy to modify yourself, but its impossible for most places to do cause its a 2 piece unit and most driveline shops cant spin balance a 2-piece setup. what we did since i couldnt afford a real one was to measure it out, cut out a section but left it long. had it expanded at a muffler shop to slip fit over the other piece, then drilled holes for rosetta welds along with a regular weld around the driveline. make sure you mark it so it gets put back together so the seam is in the same place. this will help keep it balanced.
i still have some pix from this conversion. i can post up if i have any left that are relivent.